Ep 69: Biccies for Fasting and Feasting
This episode I was talking about biscuits, sweet and savoury, from the Eastern Mediterranean! Some are dairy and egg free, in line with Orthodox Christian fasting traditions during Lent. Dates are often eaten when breaking fast during Ramadan. Others are often eaten at celebrations such as Eid, Passover or Easter.
Tahinobiskoto
Nistisimo store cupboard tahini biscuits
Makes 12
Lightly sweet and nutty, these are extremely simple and extremely delicious. Recipe from Nistisima by Georgina Hayden. These are nistisimo as they contain no animal products other than honey. They’re also gluten free!
150g ground almonds
1 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp fine salt
100g tahini
90g honey (if you don’t eat honey, try golden syrup or corn syrup – different but still nice)
15-25g sesame seeds, for decorating
Preheat the oven to 180C/ 350F (160C fan). Whisk together the ground almonds, baking powder and salt.
Add the tahini and honey and whisk until smooth.
Put the sesame seeds on a small plate
Roll into balls, then either sprinkle with or roll in the sesame seeds before placing on lined baking trays.
Bake for 8-10 minutes, until lightly golden around the edge.
Moustokouloura
Nistisimo grape molasses cookies with hazelnuts
These are nistisimo as they contain no animal products other than honey. The glaze and hazelnuts are not traditional, but I like them.
Makes 36-40
Also slightly adapted from a recipe in Nistisima by Georgina Hayden
500g plain flour
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda/ baking soda
1 tbsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground cloves
1/4 tsp fine salt
175ml/ 175g grape molasses (petimezi/ pekmez), plus a few extra tablespoons for dipping (date syrup would also work, but it wouldn’t be moustokouloura it would be a date syrup biscuit!)
125ml/ 115g light olive oil
5 tbsp/ 110g honey (if you don’t eat honey try golden syrup or corn syrup)
2 tbsp orange juice
50-100g finely chopped toasted hazelnuts
Flaky sea salt
To make half this quantity (18-20):
250g plain/AP flour
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda / bicarbonate of soda
1/2 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1/8 tsp ground cloves
1/8 tsp fine sea salt
88g grape molasses (petimezi/ pekmez), plus another tablespoon or two for dipping (date syrup would be a different biscuit but it would work!)
55g honey (or a vegan alternative eg golden syrup or corn syrup)
58g light olive oil
1 tbsp/ 15ml/ 15g orange juice
25-50g finely chopped toasted hazelnuts
Whisk together the plain flour, baking powder, bicarb/baking soda, cinnamon, cloves and salt.
Beat together the grape molasses, oil, honey and orange juice to combine. Add the dry ingredients and combine. Rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.
Preheat the oven to 190C/ 375F (170C fan). Divide into 40 small balls – around 23-24g each. Roll each into a sausage then join the ends to form a circle before placing on a lined baking sheet. Bake for 13-15 minutes until lightly golden.
Once cooled, dip in the reserved grape molasses and sprinkle with hazelnuts.
Rustic Date Ma’amul
Fragrant Middle Eastern Shortbread
These are rustic because I didn’t use the nice moulds or tweezers that are sometimes used to create beautiful ma’amul. They’re still delicious!
Slightly adapted from a recipe in Jerusalem by Sami Tamimi and Yotam Ottolenghi.
Makes about 30
350g fine semolina
50g plain / AP flour
50g caster sugar
1/4 tsp fine salt
180g unsalted butter
1 tsp orange blossom water
1/2 tsp rose water
1 tbsp milk (skip/reduce if you need to use more rose water/ orange blossom water – mine are both very strong)
Icing sugar, for dusting
Date filling:
300g dates
1 tsp mahleb/mahlepi (if you can find it)
1/4 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp cardamom
1 tbsp sunflower oil / another neutral oil
2 tbsp lemon juice
Put the semolina, flour, sugar and salt in a mixing bowl and stir together. Rub the butter in to a breadcrumb consistency using your preferred method (food processor, dough cutter or fingertips).
Add the liquids and combine. Rest for 30 minutes or up to a few hours at room temperature.
Pulse up the filling mixture in a food processor.
Preheat the oven to 180C / 350F (160C fan).
To mould the cookies, with slightly damp hands, weigh out 25g balls, then flatten, before forming into a cup using your hands. Put in about a tsp filling mixture and then close up. Flatten the ball and transfer to a lined baking tray. Gently press with the tines of a fork to decorate. Bake for about 12-14 minutes. Ideally, you don’t want them to take on colour so they stay really delicate. Dust with icing sugar before serving.
Walnut and Honey Ma’amul Bars
Aniseed spiced, crumbly middle Eastern shortbread
These got good reviews from my neighbours. A slight pain to make in terms of planning and resting, but they were very delicious. Slightly adapted from this recipe by Sami Tamimi.
Makes about 24
250g unsalted butter (or use salted and reduce the salt)
250g fine semolina
250g plain / all purpose flour
60g icing sugar
1/4 tsp instant/ fast-action yeast
1 tsp mahleb (optional)
1 tsp ground aniseed
1 tsp rose water (or more if yours is weaker than mine)
1 tsp orange blossom water (more if yours is weaker than mine)
2 tbsp water or milk (decrease this if you need to use more rose water or orange blossom – mine are very strong!)
60g ghee
Filling:
300g lightly roasted walnuts
160g runny floral honey
1/2 tsp cardamom
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp mahleb (optional)
Make the dough:
Melt the butter and leave to cool for 5 minutes. Mix with the flour, semolina, icing sugar, yeast, mahleb, aniseed and salt. Rest for 4 hours at room temperature, or you can leave overnight in the fridge but it might go quite hard, in which case you might need to warm it very gently to get it to a workable consistency.
Grease and line a 9 x 12 inch (20cm x 30cm) tin. Preheat the oven to 180C/ 350F (160C fan).
Blitz the walnuts in the food processor to a coarse almond flour consistency. Add the other ingredients and pulse to a nice paste.
Complete the dough: Melt the ghee and leave to cool for a few minutes. Transfer the rested dough to the bowl of a stand mixer. Add the ghee, rose water, orange blossom water and milk/water and beat to a lighter, creamier consistency.
Spread half of the dough over the bottom of the tin, top with the paste, then the rest of the dough. Bake for around 30 minutes until lightly golden on top. Leave to cool for 10 minutes or so, score with a knife to make squares, when more cooled cut into the squares.
Ka’ach Bilmalch
Snack-Tastic Spiced Bread Rings, two ways
Having looked at the Jerusalem’s Abadi bakery website, they have variations of these delicious savoury bread ring snacks – so why not try out your own spicing or perhaps using dried herbs!
They keep really well as they’re nice and dry, but that means they’re best served with a dipping sauce such as muharrama, one made tahini, yogurt and lemon juice (thinned with water) or even a tapenade. A cold beer wouln’t go amiss either.
These are slightly adapted from a recipe in Jerusalem by Sami Tamimi and Yotam Ottolenghi.
Both versions make 30-35
Fennel, cumin and black onion spiced version:
500g plain flour
100ml sunflower oil (light olive oil would also be good)
100g unsalted butter, softened (or a vegan butter)
1 tsp fast-action/ instant yeast
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp sugar
7g salt
1 tsp cumin seeds
1.5 tbsp fennel seeds
About 100ml/g water
1 egg – UK/EU medium or US/Aus/Canada large, whisked (or brush with oil)
2 tsp Nigella seeds
Za’atar spiced version
Za’atar is actually a herb as well as a spice mix. The herb is sometimes called Syrian oregano, biblical hyssop, or just za’atar. The closest I can get in just dried herbs is Italian oregano. Dried thyme would also work.
500g plain flour
100ml sunflower oil (light olive oil would also be good)
100g unsalted butter, softened (or a vegan alternative)
1 tsp fast-action/ instant yeast
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp sugar
7g salt
1 tsp cumin seeds
1.5 tbsp coriander seeds
1 tbsp sumac
2 tbsp dried oregano or thyme
Alternatively, you could replace the sumac and dried herb with 3 tbsp za’atar spice mix
About 100ml water
1 egg – UK/EU medium or US/Aus/Canada large, whisked (or brush with oil)
2 tsp sesame seeds
Method for both:
Preheat the oven to 200C / 400F (180C fan).
Toast the fennel or coriander seeds and cumin seeds for a few minutes in a dry pan. Crush roughly in a pestle and mortar.
Put the flour in a bowl. Mix in the baking powder, salt and sugar, then the yeast. Add the spices and/or herbs (minus the nigella or sesame seeds). Make a well in the centre. Add the oil, butter and water and knead to form a dough.
Line a baking sheet. Form balls of about 25g. Roll into snakes then pinch to form a ring then put onto the baking sheet about 2cm apart. Leave to prove for 30 minutes in a warm place, or a little longer in a cooler room.
Brush with the egg, sprinkle with the sesame seeds or nigella seeds . Bake for 22 minutes until golden brown. They keep for up to 10 days in a air tight container.
Ep 68: Toothsome Tiramisù, 3 ways
Classic tiramisu is made with savoiardi/ ladyfingers, coffee, Marsala (sweet dessert wine), cocoa to dust and a raw egg mascarpone custard called zabaglione / sabayon.
This is one of the few areas where I’m a purist. I favour making a zabaglione over using cream: it’s lighter, balances better with the other ingredients, and soaks in more evenly. If you can’t get pasteurised eggs, there are recipes out there where you pasteurise your eggs first – as well as cheat’s versions using cream instead of zabaglione.
But, playing around with the flavours, I’m all for. Mr. 100 Tiramisù in Rome serve tens of variations of it. If they can do it, why can’t you?
As a PSA to the governments of the world who I’m sure are reading this (winky face), just start making sure all your eggs are pasteurised if you have salmonella in the chicken population. Raw eggs are an incredible ingredient in all sorts of things, from tiramisu to chocolate mousse to mayonnaise. Stop depriving people of making these simple treats at home. Also… Japan – konichiwa. We are all very jealous of your very healthy, salmonella-free chickens. Imagine being able to eat rare yakitori chicken. It sounds utterly incredible.
Give yourself enough time to let the tiramisù sit in the fridge. I find 4 hours isn’t enough. Make it in the morning if eating in the evening, or even the day before.
Classic Tiramisù
If you’re craving the original, here it is, with all the important classic elements. The balance of rich and bitter coffee and cocoa with sweet, sharp Marsala… with the savoiardi and zabaglione as the canvas you paint the flavours onto, is what makes this dish great.
4 generous portions, 6 abstemious
200g savoiardi (about 24 in number)
250g (just under 9 oz) mascarpone
3 tbsp Marsala or sweet sherry
2 UK/EU large or US/Aus/Canada XL eggs (c. 130g weighed in shells), whites and yolks separated
200ml/g good coffee – Moka pot, Americano or filter in style
80g caster/ superfine sugar (it does work better than granulated)
A pinch of salt
Cocoa, to dust – ideally Dutch-processed
Equipment: 10 inch square tin
Make and cool the coffee. It’s ok if it’s a little warm but too hot and the biscuits will fall apart in it. Transfer to a bowl with a large-ish surface area (easier for rolling the biscuits in). Stir in the Marsala/ sweet sherry.
Whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt to stiff peaks.
Using the same whisk but a different bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar to light and creamy. Whisk in the mascarpone.
Spread a small amount of zabaglione on the base of the tin. Dip the savoiardi in to the coffee, completely but briefly, and form a layer of them on top. With just under half of the remaining zabaglione, spread over the biscuit layer. Repeat so you have another layer of dipped biscuits and zabaglione.
Loosely cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours. It keeps for about 2 days in the fridge. Dust with cocoa before serving.
Pistachio Tiramisù
Pistachio Tiramisu – what?! It’s not as subversive as it sounds… or is it? Pistachios are a really important crop in parts of Italy, especially Sicily, where pistachio cream is easily found. Luckily we can now find it online. I did try my local Italian deli, but it’s tiny so unsurprisingly they don’t stock everything. But I found some in one of my local Turkish grocery stores! I’ve no idea who made it first, but I do know that Sicily was ruled both by the Moors and the Ottoman Empire and pistachios are native to Asia so at some point pistachios were introduced to Sicily. Somehow both Turkey and Sicily both have fantastic sweet pistachio cremas. Sign me up for all of it, anywhere and at all times.
I like to serve with raspberries as the pistachio cream makes this more rich and nutty than a classic tiramisu, so some fresh, fruity acidity is welcome. Chopped pistachios on top enhances the pistachio flavour and adds a different texture.
I’ve based this on various recipes I found online.
c. 6 portions
200g savoiardi (about 24 in number)
250g mascarpone
3 tbsp Marsala or sweet sherry
2 UK/EU large or US/Aus/Canada XL eggs (c. 130g weighed in shells), whites and yolks separated
200ml good coffee – Moka pot, Americano or filter in style
30g caster/ superfine sugar (it does work better than granulated)
KEY INGREDIENT: 80g pistachio cream / crema da pistacchio (NOT pistachio butter or a 100% pistachio paste. This is a sweet and smooth cream you can spread on toast.)
A pinch of salt
50g white chocolate
75-100g pistachios
Fresh raspberries, to serve, if you like
Roast the pistachios for 5 minutes in a low oven.
Make and cool the coffee. Transfer to a bowl with a large-ish surface area (it’s easier to roll/ dip the biscuits in). Stir in the Marsala/ sweet sherry.
Gently melt the white chocolate using your preferred method (bain marie or short bursts in microwave). Leave to cool a bit.
Whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt to stiff peaks.
Using the same whisk but a different bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar to light and creamy. Whisk in the mascarpone and combine, then the white chocolate, and finally the pistachio cream.
Spread a small amount of zabaglione on the base of the tin. Dip the savoiardi in to the coffee, completely but briefly, and form a layer of them on top. With just under half of the remaining zabaglione, spread over the biscuit layer. Repeat so you have another layer of dipped biscuits and zabaglione.
Loosely cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours. It keeps about 2 days in the fridge.
Just before serving, scatter over the chopped pistachios and raspberries, if you like.
Lemon Tiramisù
Lemons are an extremely important crop across the whole of the Mediterranean. In the Italian context, the Amalfi coast is famed for its lemons. I’ve made some minor tweaks to this lovely recipe from Amalfi native Genarro Contaldo, who also tells you how you can make your own limoncello. This works because we are balancing bitter and sour notes from the lemon, plus an alcoholic kick from limoncello, with the sweet, light, creamy zabaglione.
We thought toasted, flaked (slivered) almonds would be nice to add a bit of texture to the top – up to you. They’re also grown in southern Italy, should you want to convince any sceptical guests.
4 generous servings/.6 abstemious
2 unwaxed lemons (according to some recipes I’ve seen, you can unwax them by soaking in boiled water)
130g caster/ superfine sugar (it is best here as opposed to granulated)
250g (just under 9 oz) mascarpone
3 tbsp limoncello (lemon liqueur)
200g savoiardi / ladyfingers (24 in number)
200ml water
2 UK/EU large or US/Aus/Canada XL eggs (c. 130g weighed in shells), separated
A pinch of salt
First, make the lemon syrup. Peel the zest of one of your lemons using a vegetable peeler. Put this into a pan with 50g of the sugar along with the juice from the lemon and the water. Simmer for 3-4 minutes. Remove the rind, set aside to cool and then finely chop. Transfer the syrup to a bowl and mix with the limoncello.
Next, make your zabaglione. Whisk your egg whites with a pinch of salt to stiff peaks. Using the same whisk but a different bowl, whisk your yolks with the remaining 80g sugar. Whisk in the mascarpone.
Spread a small amount of zabaglione on the bottom. Dip the biscuits in the syrup and limoncello biscuits, one by one, to create the first layer. Spread over a bit under half of the remaining zabaglione. Add another layer of dipped biscuits and then another layer of zabaglione. Top with the chopped candied lemon rind.
Loosely cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours. It keeps for about 2 days in the fridge.
Ep 67: Cracking King Cakes
KING CAKE!!! It’s SO delicious and a great canvas for nice flavours and textures. King Cakes are like me, I like to think: exuberant, generous, colourful, often covered in glitter and perfectly messy.
I have two suggestions… one is making an orange blossom water (aka orange flower water) brioche in the shape of a ring and then filling it with whipped cream and fruit or nuts… the other is a spiced dulce de leche and walnut cake. SO GOOD. Happy Mardi Gras!
Note: A stand mixer is preferable for the dulce de leche and walnut one and pretty much essential for the brioche one. It’s possible to make by hand, but an ordeal and a half.
Spiced Dulce de Leche and Walnut King Cake
Based on these delightful buns from Cloudy Kitchen.
For the dough:
300ml (10 fl oz) single cream / light cream (18% fat content)
8g instant/ easy-bake yeast
50g dark brown sugar (or light brown or just white)
565g strong white flour (c. 13-14% protein content)
1 tsp / 7g salt (use less if your butter is salted)
1.5 tsp cinnamon
0.5 tsp ginger
0.5 tsp cardamom
120g carrot, finely grated and wrung out in a tea towel
1 tsp vanilla extract, bean paste or sugar
2 eggs – UK/EU medium or large; US/Aus/Canada large
50g unsalted butter (or salted if you reduce the salt above)
A dried bean to stand in for the baby Jesus
For the filling:
397g Nestle Carnation caramel or other tinned dulce de leche
2.5 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp cardamom
0.5 tsp ginger
0.5 tsp vanilla extract/ bean paste
1 tsp flaky salt
250g roasted chopped walnuts (roast in a low oven for about 10 minutes)
For the decoration:
Icing sugar
Water or milk
Green, purple and gold edible glitter
To make the dough, mix the flour, sugar, dried spices and salt. Then mix in the yeast. Then the carrot. Beat the eggs with the vanilla (if using a liquid type of vanilla). Get the butter and cream to a blood temperature (c. 38C / 100F). Add the liquids to the dough and mix to combine. Leave to rest for about 20 minutes – this makes it easier to knead as the flour absorbs more of the liquid.
Knead until the dough can be stretched out enough to see light through. (This is easier in s a stand mixer but possible by hand. If you knead by hand, try not to add too much flour to the dough and embrace the stickiness in the beginning stages.) Cover and leave in a warm place until about doubled or until it doesn’t bounce back when you press the dough.
Prepare a bundt pan or pan with a hole in the middle (I tried using putting a clean tin can in the middle of a 10inch / 25.4cm pan with some success) with butter and baking paper if possible. I put two pieces around the bottom and external sides then a strip for the middle.
Mix together the spices and caramel. Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface with a lightly floured rolling pin into a large rectangle. Spread out the caramel over the dough with an offset spatula or the back of a spoon. Scatter over the walnuts. Pop the dried bean in somewhere. Roll up into a log from the short side. Form into a ring and pop into the prepared pan. Cover and leave to rise. The dough is ready when it doesn’t spring back up but holds a light impression for a few seconds. I left mine overnight in the fridge – if you want a quicker rise then you want a warm room.
Preheat the oven to 180C/ 350F (160C fan). Pop the tin on a large baking tray, to prevent any spills from burning on the bottom of your oven. Bake for about 45-55 minutes, or until a thermometer inserted into the middle reads 87C/ 190F.
Leave to cool in the tin for at least 10 minutes before turning out. Cool for a bit before slicing, to allow the crumb to set. That said, it’s especially delicious still a bit warm!!!
To decorate, make a simple icing with sifted icing sugar and a small amount of liquid (a little goes a long way). Drizzle over the top, then adorn with the glitter.
Eat on the same day or freeze. If you want to make one that won’t go stale as quickly, use a tangzhong dough – the dough from King Arthur’s Perfectly Pillowy Cinnamon Rolls is very good.
Tarte Tropezienne King Cake
For the brioche dough:
500g strong white flour (c 13% protein)
1 tbsp/ 12g instant/ easy-bake yeast
50ml milk
50g sugar
5 UK/EU medium or US/Aus/Canada large eggs
1 tbsp orange blossom water (I used Steenbergs which is quite strong. They vary in strength so you may need more – sub out some of the milk if so)
250g very soft unsalted butter (or, if you have salted butter, use less salt)
A dried bean to stand in for the baby Jesus
For the filling:
300ml (10 fl oz) double/ heavy cream
250g mascarpone
50g icing sugar / confectioner’s sugar
1 tsp vanilla bean paste
For the caramelised nuts (optional)
200g sugar (caster/superfine ideally, but granulated works)
200g roasted, chopped pecans or another nut of your choice
To decorate:
Icing sugar
Orange juice, milk or. water
Green, purple and gold edible glitter
To make the dough: Mix the flour, sugar and salt together. Then mix in the yeast. Warm the milk to blood temperature (38C/ 100F). Beat the eggs and orange blossom water together and add to the dries. Then add the warmed milk. Mix until it forms a shaggy dough. Cover and leave to rest for 10-20 minutes. (This makes it easier to knead – given we’re going to knead in 250g butter I recommend this step.)
Knead using a stand mixer until you can see light through a stretched out piece of dough. Right, now we’re going to knead in the butter. Knead in about a quarter of the total at a time, only adding more when the last lot is thoroughly incorporated.
Cover and leave to rise until it doesn’t spring back. Because it’s so enriched it won’t fully double.
Meanwhile, make the caramelised nuts. Melt the sugar in a frying pan. Swirl and caramelise by leaving to go a shade or two darker. Toss in the nuts and coat before transferring to a bowl. Set aside.
Prepare a tin with a hole in the middle (or put a clean tin can in the middle of a 10inch/25cm tin) greasing with butter and lining with baking paper as best you can. Punch down the dough and form into a ring shape. Pop it into the prepared tin. Leave to rise, overnight if possible, until an impression lasts for a few seconds in the dough, ie it doesn’t spring back immediately.
When you’re ready to bake, preheat the oven to 180C/ 350F (fan 160C). Pop the tin onto a large baking tray. Bake for about 45 minutes, or until a skewer inserted returns clean, or a thermometer inserted into the middle reads 87C/ 190F
Leave to fully cool before turning out, filling and decorating. That said, if any bits are sticking, run a sharp thin knife or palette knife around those parts to help loosen it off while it’s still warm.
When it’s fully cooled, whip up your cream, mascarpone, icing sugar and vanilla until soft peaks form. Fold in the dried bean and most of the nuts, leaving a few for the top if you like. Cut the cake carefully and horizontally to give a bottom two thirds and a top third. Dollop over the bottom part of the cake and smooth out with an offset spatula. Pop the top third on. Then you can turn to decorating, if you like. Alternatively, you could just serve the cream on the side…
To decorate, make a simple icing with sifted icing sugar and a small amount of liquid (a little goes a long way). Drizzle over the top, sprinkle over the reserved nuts (if using) then adorn with the glitter. Eat straight away – the brioche goes stale quickly and the cream deflates fairly quickly. If making in advance, freeze the brioche (sans cream) and defrost prior to serving.
Episode 66: Crumble Forever: Streusel? Crumble? Coffee Cake? Whatever, it’s delicious
In this episode I started by talking about my birthday celebrations and the history of cinnamon, before moving on to the main event: Crumble Cakes/ Coffee Cakes/ Streusel Cakes.
Streusel, crumble or coffee cake: whatever you call it, it’s delicious. Inspired by the many people baking King Arthur Flour’s 2023 Recipe of the Year – Cinnamon Crisp Coffee Cake – and the variations of it – I had a go at it.
Things I did differently throughout:
1. I changed the sugar to brown. I love brown sugar, it adds extra complexity, it compliments both chocolate and cinnamon incredibly well, so it was a no-brainer for me to do this.
2. I changed the spicing slightly. This is something I’ve picked up from Swedish cinnamon bun and cardamom bun recipes. When one of these is the prominent flavour I often add a little of the other. It makes it more complex and less of a bash-over-the-head-with-cinnamon.
Attempt 1: Extra Crumbs
The original recipe is here. I love crumble and thought I’d like this, but I found it far too sweet. Looking at various streusel and crumble recipes, a common ratio seems to be – by weight – 2 parts flour, 2 parts butter, 1 part sugar. So I adjusted this to my taste for the next time I baked it. I also thought it went a little too far on the cake: crumb ratio. I like crumbs, but I do also like cake, and the cake wasn’t as sweet so doing more cake was better balanced. Still, Gemma’s colleagues were extremely happy to receive the version I thought was too sweet…
Attempt 2: Chocolate Lovers’ Version
The original recipe is here. I was already aware of my topping preferences so I reduced the sugar slightly. I used dark milk chocolate as we categorise chocolate differently here than in the US. (Mine was 40% cocoa solids.) I absolutely loved this. Make sure you don’t overmix it, be aware that it’s better on day 2 or 3 than day 1. I think buying chocolate milk is unnecessary – next time I would just use buttermilk. Finally, I’m not convinced by the weight conversions of cocoa. When I weigh cocoa, 1 tbsp is about 7 or 7.5g. If you have several tablespoons going in to a recipe, even a 1 or 1.5g discrepancy makes a big difference. Do what you are comfortable with.I went with tbsp not weight, so it weighed slightly more than it said, but it didn’t dry the cake out. DEFINITELY use the espresso powder, in fact better to use 1/2 tsp rather than 1/4. The roasty rich notes in coffee enhance chocolate, as we all know.
Attempt 3: Cinnamon Crisp with Plum Jam
Thirdly, I made a beast of a cake which had everything going on. It had the cake layers, the cinnamon-cocoa fudgy layer, it had a layer of plum jam AND a layer of cinnamon crumble. As a result, it was huge and took ages to bake, and the baking wasn’t quite as consistent as I’d like. So that’s something to ponder. Maybe the jam just didn’t belong there, or maybe it didn’t need BOTH the jam layer AND the cinnamon-cocoa layer. However, plum with cinnamon is delicious, plum with cocoa is delicious, plum with cinnamon and cocoa is delicious. It tasted divine.
Conclusion: The Cake for People Who Hate Icing
Brits like myself call coffee-flavoured cakes coffee cake, so we’re quite confused by this. But streusel cakes, coffee cakes, crumble cakes… they are the perfect cakes for people who don’t like icing. Still moist, still loads of different textures and interesting things going on, but no icing.
Below are the two recipes I’m happy with, adapted from King Arthur Flour.
Cinnamon Crumble Cake with Extra Crumbs
For the streusel/crumble:
100g plain / AP flour
100g butter
1 1/2 tsp cinnamon
Salt (1/4-1/2 tsp)
50g soft light brown sugar (or regular)
1 tsp vanilla (I used vanilla sugar but use whatever you have)
For the cake:
240g plain / AP flour
150g soft light brown sugar (or regular)
1 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda/ bicarbonate of soda
1/2 tsp salt (less if your butter is salted)
113g butter (1 stick) (at room temperature)
2 tsp vanilla extract or bean paste
2 UK/EU Medium or US/Aus/Canada Large eggs, whisked briefly to break up the yolks
227g buttermilk or yogurt (unsweetened natural or Greek)
For the filling:
66g soft light brown sugar (or regular)
1 tsp cinnamon
2 tbsp cocoa (I used Dutch-processed but use natural if you like)
1/2 tsp ground cardamom
1/2 tsp vanilla (I used vanilla sugar, but use whatever you have)
Method/Directions
Grease and line an 8″ or 9″ square tin. (Mine was 9″). Preheat the oven to 180C/ 350F/ 160C fan.
Mix the filling mixture together in a small bowl.
Rub in the crumbs with your finger tips, with a pastry cutter or a fork. I like to rub in the butter, flour and spices then stir in the sugar and salt, but it doesn’t matter too much if you do them all together. Try to leave a variety of crumb sizes in the bowl – this is why it’s best to do by hand not in a mixer.
To make the cake batter: In a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the butter into the flour, sugar, salt and raising agents. Beat in the vanilla, eggs and buttermilk/yogurt until combined. I found that, even though we reverse creamed, it’s still very possible to overmix this cake.
Spread about half the cake mixture into the bottom of the tin, using an offset spatula or the back of a dessert spoon. Sprinkle over the filling mixture as evenly as you can. Dollop remaining cake batter on top and smooth over. Sprinkle over the crumbs.
Bake for c. 28-32 mins, until there’s no longer a wobble, or a skewer comes out clean of raw cake batter.
Chocolate Lover’s Crumble Cake
For the filling:
66g sugar
2 tbsp / 15g cocoa (I used my favourite Dutch processed one which is Green & Blacks, but natural works)
1 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground cardamom
45g chopped semisweet or dark milk chocolate (c. 40% cocoa solids). (If you have good quality mini chocolate chips, use these by all means. They’re impossible to find where I live.)
For the crumbs:
100g plain/AP flour
100g butter
3 tbsp/ 22g good cocoa (I used my favourite Dutch-processed, but natural works)
75g soft light brown sugar (slightly higher than the previous recipe to balance the cocoa) (you can use regular sugar if you prefer)
1/4 tsp salt (use more or less depending on the size of the salt grains/crystals and whether or not your butter is salted)
1 tsp vanilla bean paste/extract
45g chopped semisweet or dark milk chocolate (c 40% cocoa solids) (If you have good quality mini chocolate chips, use these by all means. They’re impossible to find where I live.)
For the cake:
210g plain / AP flour
150g soft light brown sugar (or regular sugar if you prefer)
4 tbsp / 30g good cocoa (I used my favourite Dutch-processed, but natural works)
113g butter (at room temperature)
2 UK/EU medium or US/Aus/Canada large eggs, whisked briefly to break up the yolks
240g buttermilk or unsweetened natural or Greek yogurt
2 tsp vanilla extract or bean paste
1/2 tsp espresso powder
1 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda / bicarbonate of soda
3/4 tsp salt (adjust dependent on types of butter and salt)
Grease and line an 8 or 9″ square tin. Preheat the oven to 180C/ 350F / 160C fan.
Mix the filling ingredients in a bowl and set aside.
Rub in the crumbs with your finger tips, with a pastry cutter or a fork. I like to rub in the butter, flour, cocoa and spices together then stir in the sugar and salt, but it doesn’t matter too much if you do them all together. Try to leave a variety of crumb sizes in the bowl – this is why it’s best to do by hand not in a mixer.
To make the cake batter: Mix the dry ingredients – flour, sugar, raising agents, cocoa, salt. Beat in the butter to this to get crumbs. Add the remaining ingredients and beat to combine. I found that it is possible to overmix a reverse-creamed cake so stop when combined.
Spread about half the cake mixture into the bottom of the tin. Sprinkle over the filling. Top with the remaining cake mixture. Sprinkle over the crumbs. Bake for 28-32 minutes, until it doesn’t wobble and a skewer comes out clean of raw cake.
Episode 65: A Roll Cake for All Occasions
This episode was born out of a disaster! I tried to make a yule log for our friends, who were having dinner with us, but I overfilled the tin and under-baked the cake, and when I tried to roll it, it became a sloppy mess. Luckily, I had some amaretti leftover from Christmas that we had instead! But, determined to get it right, I tried another recipe, and (almost) nailed it. It was exceptionally delicious, but the chocolate cream on the outside ended up too solid and wasn’t soft as it’s meant to be.
I then tried to make a vanilla honey cake based on the same recipe, but the honey made it unstable- however, adding it to the cream was incredibly delicious!
So, through trial and error, out comes this: a roll cake for any season and any occasion. I’m obsessed with this not just because it looks pretty, but the whisked sponge has the most incredible texture and is the perfect vehicle for flavoured heavy cream.
Tiramisu Roll Cake
A lightly chocolatey sponge, dusted with cocoa for further intensity/ tiramisu-ness, with an espresso-marsala cream. Spank my ass and call me Richard, this is my best invention. I strongly recommend using Dutch processed cocoa powder here, to intensify the flavour.
For the sponge:
90g plain flour
20g Dutch processed cocoa powder, plus a little extra for dusting (this is standard in Europe and the UK, for any UK/European listeners – it isn’t standard in the USA)
1/2 tsp baking powder
4 UK/EU large eggs (similar to US/Aus XL, or you can weigh – it’s approx 225g egg, minus shells)
A pinch of salt
100g caster (superfine) or granulated sugar
For the Coffee-Marsala Cream:
300ml/g double/ heavy cream (about 10 fl oz)
30g sifted icing sugar
1 scant tsp espresso powder
1 dessertspoon (10g/ml) of Marsala or sweet sherry
For the Chocolate Cream (optional – I actually prefer it without but if you’re making a yule log you need this to complete the look! My partner preferred it with as it was more chocolatey):
300g/ml double/ heavy cream (about 10 fl oz)
100g dark chocolate, chopped small
1 tbsp marsala/ sweet sherry
Pinch espresso powder
Method:
If making the chocolate cream, heat the cream until steaming. Pour over the dark chocolate in a bowl. Leave for 1 minute, then stir. The chocolate will beautifully melt! Stir in the marsala/ sweet sherry and the pinch of espresso powder. Leave to cool completely, including refrigerating it.
Grease and line a 9×13 Swiss roll (jelly roll) tin at least 1cm/ 1/2 inch deep with a good quality baking paper. Preheat the oven to 180C/ 350F.
Sift the cocoa powder, flour and baking powder together and set aside.
Whisk the eggs, sugar and salt together (salt can help stabilise whisked eggs, as well as enhancing the flavour) to the ‘ribbon stage’.
Sift the flour mixture in in two or three batches, folding in. I opted to use a large metal spoon as I found it easier to get into all the corners. The technique is more important than the implement, so use a spatula if you prefer!
Pour into the cake tin. Bake for 12-15 minutes, until springy to the touch. Mine took 14.
Cool for 1 minute while you prepare your work surface with a piece of parchment paper a bit larger than the cake tin, dusted with cocoa powder.
With courage, flip the cake on to the baking paper. Carefully peel off the old baking paper. Roll up from one of the short sides, with the baking paper inside. Leave to cool completely.
When the cake has cooled completely, whisk up the filling cream. Whisk together the double cream, espresso powder, icing sugar and the Marsala/ sweet sherry to soft peaks.
Unroll the cake gently. Spread the cream inside then roll back up, with the seam at the bottom. If you are not using the chocolate cream, simply dust with a little more cocoa and refrigerate until serving. It keeps for about 2 days.
If using the chocolate cream, whisk up the cooled chocolate cream to soft peaks. You can use the same bowl, wiped out, as it has had similar ingredients in. Spread over the cake, and drag a fork through it for a log look. Refrigerate until serving, loosely covering. It keeps for about 2 days.
Vanilla, Plum Jam and Honey Roll Cake
Like a well-balanced Victoria sponge in a more fun form. No overly sweet buttercream, a more moist sponge, and plum jam has a nice tartness. Obviously use any other jam if you prefer, or even lemon curd. Anything slightly tart is good – blackcurrant, blackberry, raspberry, etc. Personally, strawberry isn’t my go-to but it’s your cake, and if making for kids that might be the best option.
For the sponge:
110g plain flour
1/2 tsp baking powder
4 UK/EU large eggs (similar to US/Aus XL, or you can weigh – it’s approx 225g egg, minus shells)
100g caster (superfine) or granulated sugar
2 tsp vanilla (I used 1 tsp vanilla sugar, 1 tsp vanilla bean paste, but use what you. have)
A pinch of salt
Icing sugar, for dusting
For the cream:
300ml/g double/ heavy cream (about 10 fl oz)
3 tbsp nice honey – I used a runny blossom honey
1 tsp vanilla (sugar, bean paste or extract preferred to essence)
A pinch of salt
About 3-4 tbsp jam/preserve of your choice (see above for ideas). If it has large chunks in it blitz in a mini blender or just leave the chunks out.
Method:
Grease and line a 23 x 33cm / 9 x 13 inch Swiss roll/ jelly roll pan with good baking paper. It needs to be at least 1cm/ 1/2 inch deep. Preheat the oven to 180C/ 350F.
Sift the flour and baking powder and set aside.
Whisk the eggs, sugar, salt and vanilla until ribbon stage. Fold in the flour mixture in two or three stages. Pour into the pan. Bake for 12-15 minutes, until springy to the touch. (Mine took 14.)
Cool for 1 minute while you prepare your work surface with a sheet of baking paper a bit larger than the tin and dusting it with icing sugar. With courage, flip the cake on to the baking paper. Carefully peel off the old baking paper. Roll up with the baking paper inside. Leave to cool completely.
When the cake is cool, whip up your cream. Whip the cream, salt, honey and vanilla to soft peaks.
Unroll the cake gently. Carefully spread the cake with the jam. The spread over the cream with an offset spatula. Roll back up, with the seam at the bottom. Dust with icing sugar. Cover loosely and refrigerate until serving. It keeps about 2 days.
Earl Grey and Crushed Raspberry Roll Cake
For the earl grey cream:
300ml double / heavy cream (c. 10 fl oz)
2 tsp loose earl grey tea leaves
30g sifted icing sugar
A pinch of salt
Freeze-dried raspberries, crushed lightly
For the sponge:
110g plain flour
1/2 tsp baking powder
4 UK/EU large eggs (roughly US/Aus XL, or 225g in weight, minus shells)
100g caster (superfine) or granulated sugar
1/2 tsp vanilla bean paste (or extract, or sugar)
Finely grated zest of 1 orange
Icing sugar, for dusting
Method:
Start with the cream, as it needs time to cool. Put the cream and tea leaves in a saucepan. Heat until starting to simmer. Take off the heat and steep for 15 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve and refrigerate until completely cold.
Grease and line a 23x33cm / 9×13 inch Swiss roll/ jelly roll pan with good baking paper. Preheat the oven to 180C/ 350F.
Sift the flour and baking powder and set aside.
Whisk the eggs, sugar, salt, orange zest and vanilla until ribbon stage.
Fold in the flour mixture in two or three stages. Pour into the pan. Bake for 12-15 minutes, until springy to the touch. (Mine took 14.)
Leave to cool for 1 minute while you prepare your work surface with a piece of baking paper a bit larger than the size of the tin, dusted with icing sugar. With courage, flip the cake out. Peel off the old baking paper. Roll up with the new baking paper inside. Leave to cool completely.
When the cake is completely cool, whip up the cooled earl grey cream with the icing sugar and salt.
Carefully unroll the cake and spread over the cream. Sprinkle over the roughly crushed freeze-dried raspberries. Roll up, with the seam at the bottom. Dust with icing sugar. Cover loosely and refrigerate until serving. It keeps for about 2 days.
Episode 64: Make-Ahead Holiday Desserts
Classic, 2-Ingredient Chocolate Mousse
A classic, French chocolate mousse is just two main ingredients – chocolate and eggs. You may want to add sugar, or spicing. I add salt to both stabilise the whisked egg and season. If you’re nervous of raw eggs, there are many egg-free recipes out there using whipped cream. Personally, I love the simplicity and clean flavour of this.
4 eggs – UK/EU medium or US/Aus large, separated
110g dark (bittersweet) or milk chocolate with a high cocoa content, or a blend of both – the highest quality you can afford
A pinch of salt
Notes:
– If using dark/ bittersweet chocolate, you may want to add 2 tsp sugar and/or serve with cream
– It’s nice to serve with something acidic as it’s quite rich. I made the one above when raspberries were in season! But now I might add lemon or orange zest instead.
– Some crunch can be nice, hence the pistachios above but whatever is your favourite nut to go with chocolate is good. Only place any extras on top at the last minute, otherwise they’ll sink in to the mousse.
Melt and cool the chocolate
Mix the chocolate and egg yolks together.
Whisk the egg whites to medium peaks, adding a pinch of salt and a teaspoon or two of sugar if wanted.
Fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture.
Cover and chill well before serving, for 2 hours or up to overnight adding any toppings at the very last minute. (You can’t make this longer in advance as it will eventually collapse.)
Burnt Caramel Custards
Heady with vanilla, silky, just a tiny bit bitter and topped with a crunchy brulee topping – this is a seriously sophisticated, yet understated, dessert. The best bit is you can make it in advance and chill in your fridge up to two days in advance, but if you’re bruleeing do this just before serving!
Recipe from Peggy Loftus Bon Appetit. Below I have simply halved and converted to metric, for 4 generous servings.
475ml/g double/ heavy cream
1 vanilla bean (or 2 tsp vanilla bean paste in my case)
100g sugar – granulated (or caster/superfine) plus extra for the topping
3 UK/EU medium or US/Aus large egg yolks
Salt, to taste
See the link for the full recipe.
Notes: For a more festive twist, I think you could add a little brandy into the cream; or infuse the cream with spices (eg a cinnamon scroll and a clove or two) and/or with orange peel along with or instead of the vanilla.
You could also add a crunchy biscuit on the side for textural contrast. A high quality speculaas/speculoos would be very festive, as would some sort of biscotti!
Further Suggestions:
Don’t fear the soufflé.
A basic soufflé is about having a thickish creamy liquid so you don’t drag the whisked egg whites down with lots of liquid. So you might make a reduced fruit puree, for example. Or a creme patissiere. Or a halva cream.
Other than that, if you know how to make a basic French meringue, you know how to make souffle. Ignore the tension building you see in food competition TV: it’s just science!
You can make the thick creamy bit in advance, but you’ll want to whisk your egg whites and bake JUST before serving, so it’s voluminous and light. Every recipe will probably tell you this, but don’t open the oven door while baking as the steam helps the rise.
Pared-down trifles…
In my house, my mum would always bring out an absolutely enormous bowl of trifle at Christmas, in a fancy glass bowl, that people would spend a few days working on.
Personally, I’m not a huge fan, I don’t like jelly all that much, especially not WITH fruit, and for me the whole thing is too sloppy. A 1970s British trifle is just not for me. I’m not necessarily right, I just have my own tastes.
However, the idea of a layered dessert you chill in advance is an excellent one. See tiramisu, for example, or cranachan.
So to start, you want something dry that will absorb liquid without dissolving into nothing. In Britan we might use madeira cake, in tiramisu it’s ladyfinger biscuits.
Then you want a nice, whipped liquid. In tiramisu, it’s classically a sabayon/zabaione, which is made with raw eggs. In trifle, it’s often whipped cream AND custard.
Then build up your layers, I personally just like a few flavours, like a tiramisu gives you – chocolate, cream, coffee, liqueur. And ensure some textural contrast by adding crunch to the top, if you want that.
A couple of ideas to trifle with:
Orangey, Cakey, Chocolatey, Nutty
Ladyfingers soaked in a orange juice and Cointreau, tinned clementines (don’t knock it until you’ve tried it – I love them!), cream, shaved chocolate and toasted pistachios or hazelnuts on top
Lemony, Cakey, Almondy
A simple three layers: Pannetone soaked in a mixture made from lemon juice, sugar, hot water and limoncello; then lemon curd whipped with cream and sugar; then lightly crushed amaretti on top.
Spiced Prune, Almond, Port and Mascarpone
Recipe here – but I’d skip making a pound cake and try to find an almondy pannetone out of convenience. I chose this because plums and prunes (which are just dried plums) are sorely underrated in Britain. They’re tart, delicious and not too dry. They’re featured heavily in Tava by Irina Georgescu which is how I’ve become such a fan.
Apple, Honey, Oats, Whiskey
Recipe here – I reckon you could even cheat and use what Americans call applesauce – which by the way in Eastern Europe is delightfully called “apple butter”, and they have other varieties such as plum butter and pear butter. It’s simply fruit cooked low and slow for ages to greatly reduce the moisture content and increase the shelf life. I chose this recipe over normal cranachan because raspberries are wildly out of season here, but of course use berries if you like, if they’re in season, and/or if you have some in the freezer.
Episode 63: Joyful and Delectable Festive Baking
What a fabulous time I’ve been having doing loads of festive baking and having an excuse to start early! (‘It’s for the podcast’ is my brilliant excuse.) Out of all the below and everything I baked last Christmas, the things I’m going to make again and again are Mrs Wilson’s mince pies (of course), vanillekipferl, rugelach (I might try some different fillings too!), mahleb shortbread, Linzer biscuits (perhaps trying with a different jam such as blackcurrant, which is very European of me!) and…. when I have time on my hands and don’t mind dirtying many bowls, the cozonac. It’s INCREDIBLE but is quite the ordeal to make – on a par with brioche, more complicated, slightly less difficult to knead.
Treacle Gingerbread Cookies
Adapted from a recipe posted by Benjamina Ebuehi on her Instagram.
To make around 18-20 cookies:
125g butter, melted
200g muscovado sugar – dark or light
50g black treacle, molasses or golden syrup (If using dark muscovado, use golden syrup/corn syrup. If using light muscovado then use black treacle or molasses)
1 UK/EU medium or US/Aus large egg
260g plain/AP flour
3 tsp /1tbsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp ground allspice or 1/4 tsp ground cloves
1/2 tsp nutmeg or mace (optional)
1 tsp baking soda / bicarbonate of soda
1/2 tsp salt
Demerara, turbinado or granulated sugar, for rolling
To make 36-40 cookies:
250g butter, melted
400g muscovado sugar – dark or light
100g black treacle, molasses or golden syrup (If using dark muscovado, use golden syrup/corn syrup. If using light muscovado then use black treacle or molasses.)
2 UK/EU medium or US/Aus large eggs
520g plain/AP flour
2 tbsp ground ginger
2 tsp baking soda / bicarbonate of soda
1 tsp nutmeg or mace (optional)
1 tsp salt
Demerara, turbinado or granulated sugar, for rolling
Mix the butter and sugar together. If you want to avoid lumps in the sugar, sieve it. Stir in the syrup/treacle/molasses. Stir in the egg(s).
Add the dry ingredients and mix well. Chill for 3 hours or, better, overnight.
Preheat the oven to 180C/ 160C fan / 350F. Line a big baking tray or cooking sheet with baking paper. Roll into 30g balls. Roll in demerara/turbinado/ granulated sugar. Bake for 15 minutes for a soft bake, or 18 minutes for a crisper bake.
Walnut Rugelach / Cornulete cu Nuci
Adapted from Tava by Irina Georgescu
I’ve given a large quantity because these are biscuits to be shared! But, you can absolutely halve the recipe, or freeze some unbaked and bake from frozen – just add 1-2 minutes to the cooking time.
Makes 32
500g plain/ AP flour, plus extra for dusting
250g cold butter (add a good pinch of salt to the flour if the butter is unsalted)
40g caster/superfine sugar (I imagine that granulated is fine too)
3 egg yolks (my eggs were UK/EU medium which is US/Aus large)
150g sour cream (mine was a 17% Polish sour cream)
2 tsp milk or water
2 tsp baking powder
2 tsp vanilla sugar (optional)
Demerara sugar, for sprinkling
For the filling:
150g walnuts
100g brown sugar
1/2 tsp cinnamon
50g butter
Rub the flour and butter together until they look like breadcrumbs. You can use your thumb and fingers, a pastry blender or a food processor here. Add the sugar(s) and baking powder and mix well with a knife. Mix the sour cream with 2 of the egg yolks and the milk or water. Bring the dough together, kneading as little as possible. Add a drop or two more liquid if it’s too try to bring together. Wrap or cover and chill for 1 hour or overnight, if more convenient.
Make the walnut filling by blitzing everything together in a food processor. Cover and chill until needed.
Preheat the oven to 180C/ 160C fan/ 350F. Flour your work surface, rolling pin and hands. Take half/ quarter the dough (a lump weighing around 250g) and roll out to a circle, adding a sprinkle more flour if needed but not more than that! When you have a circle the size of a large dinner plate or slightly bigger, plate a dinner plate on top and cut around the excess. Cut the circle into 8 by going half way horizontally, vertically then cutting on the diagonals.
Leaving a little space at the edges, gently squidge a bit of walnut filling on to each portion. Roll up from the long edge. Press the ends to seal and curve down a little to make a crescent. Place on a lined baking tray and bake for 15 minutes.
Mahleb Kurabia Shortbreads
Again, I make quite a large quantity because I like to share, but you can scale up or down. Mahleb is unique but tastes a little like a cross between bitter almond and cinnamon.
Adapted from Tava by Irina Georgescu.
240g soft butter (add a good pinch of salt to the flour if you are using unsalted butter)
120g caster/ superfine sugar
360g plain/ all purpose flour
20g mahleb, or 2 tsp cinnamon 1 tsp almond extract, or another flavouring such as orange zest and cinnamon
For rolling: 100g icing / powdered sugar, spiced if you like with 1 tsp mahleb or 1/2 tsp cinnamon
Cream the butter with the sugar. Add the flour and spice(s). Chill for 2 hours or a bit longer if that fits in with your time better.
Roll into 25g balls. Flatten them slightly. Chill and freeze for 10 minutes just before baking. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180C/ 160C fan. Bake for 15 minutes, you want them soft and not to change colour much. Cool then roll in or dust with the icing sugar.
Zedernbrot – Lemon and Almond Biscuits
Adapted from Classic German Baking by Luisa Weiss
2 lemons
2 egg whites (mine were UK/EU medium which is roughly US/Aus large)
250g granulated or caster/castor/superfine sugar
1/2 tsp almond extract (optional)
1/4 tsp salt
400g ground almonds/ almond flour or a mix of almond flour and almond meal
125g icing/confectioners’ sugar
Grate the lemon peel. Add 2 tbsp lemon juice. Whisk in the egg whites then the granulated/caster/superfine sugar and salt (and almond extract, if using).
Add most of the almonds, and add more until it feels firm enough to roll out. Cover or wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 2 days.
Preheat the oven to 325F/ 160-165C. Roll the dough out between two sheets of parchment paper to 1/3 inch thickness (don’t go too thin as you want some softness as well as some chewiness).
Cut out and transfer to lined baking trays. They won’t spread much but leave a bit of a gap between them. If needed, rinse the cutter in cold water to prevent it sticking. Bake at a steady temperature for 10 minutes.
To make the glaze, sift the icing sugar. Whisk in 2-3 tbsp remaining lemon juice. When the biscuits have cooled a bit, brush with the glaze.
Leave to cool completely then store in air tight containers, separating layers with parchment paper. They keep for up to two weeks. I actually liked them better after about 5 days, partly as I had slightly overbaked them so they were a bit chewy at first.
Orange and Aniseed Shortbreads
Adapted from Tava by Irina Georgescu
150g butter
250g plain/ all purpose flour
60g caster/superfine sugar
1 egg – UK/EU medium or US/Aus large
1/2 tsp baking powder
Orange zest
2 tbsp milk or orange juice
2 tsp crushed fennel seeds
2 tsp crushed aniseeds
2 tsp aniseeds to decorate
Rub in flour and butter. Add the other ingredients and bring together into a dough. Chill well. Roll out in to a rectangle 8mm/ 1/3 inch thick. Cut out shapes. Chill again for 30 minutes before baking.
Preheat the oven to 180C/ 350F. Bake for 12-15 minutes then cool. I like a softer bake and bake on the low end of this.
Home-Made Mincemeat
Adapted from Cook As You Are by Ruby Tandoh
120g dark brown sugar (you can, as I did, use muscovado)
100g peeled and chopped cooking apple (Mine was a Bramley. Cooking apples are less sweet and have a more floury texture. But if you only have an eating apple, just use it!)
200g dried fruit – I used a mixture of mixed dried fruit and currants, as it’s what I had, but raisins or sultanas are also good
Zest and juice of 2 small-ish oranges (preferably unwaxed), or measure the juice to 75g/ml
75g pecans, or whatever nut you fancy, roughly chopped
75g suet – vegetarian or beef (If you can’t get hold of suet, freeze some baking block and grate it, before popping it back in the freezer before using)
1 tsp mixed spice (if you can’t get hold of this, it’s basically ground coriander with a load of warm spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves)
A pinch of ground cloves
1/4 tsp salt
3 tbsp brandy, or a rich spirit of your choice (e.g. spiced rum), you could also add a dash of something like Cointreau or Kirsch
Combine the sugar, fruit, orange zest, juice, nuts, suet, spices and salt. Heat gently and cook when steaming for 6-8 minutes. You’ll see why the suet is essential – it melts in to make the mixture glossy. Cool until you’re ready to use.
Mrs Wilson’s Mince Pies
For the pastry:
500g plain flour
175g icing sugar
375G butter
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 large orange
For the filling and assembly:
250g full fat cream cheese
50g caster sugar
500g mincemeat
Egg yolk and milk to glaze
Demerara/turbinado sugar, for sprinkling (optional)
Icing sugar to finish
To make a smaller amount:
250g plain flour
88g icing sugar
188g butter
125g cream cheese
25g caster sugar
250g mincemeat
Milk to glaze
Icing sugar to finish
Rub in butter and flour. Add orange zest. Stir in orange juice until just sticking together. Rest in the fridge until really cold, or up to a couple of days.
When you’re ready to bake, preheat the oven to 190C/ 170C fan/ 375F. Grease a bun tin. Mix cream cheese with sugar. Roll out on a lightly floured surface to a few mm thickness.
Fill pies halfway with mincemeat then add 1 tsp cream cheese mixture. If using lids, brush them with a little egg yolk mixed with milk. You could also sprinkle sugar on top.
Bake for 15-20 minutes.
Quarkstollen / Quick Stollen
Adapted from two recipes – one over at ChefKoch.de (thanks to listener Julia for translating) and one in Classic German Baking by Luisa Weiss
For the dough:
400g plain/ all purpose flour
1 tbsp/ 16g baking powder
150g flaked/ slivered almonds
100g ground almonds/ almond flour
150g granulated or caster/superfine sugar
1/2 tsp salt
Zest of 1 lemon (preferably unwaxed)
120g unsalted, high-fat butter (at room temperature)
250g full-fat Quark, or similar (I used a Polish twaróg).
2 eggs (UK/EU medium or US/Aus large)
Optional flavourings (I used all of them!):
1/2-1 tsp almond extract
1/2 tsp mace/ nutmeg
1/4 tsp cardamom
1 tsp vanilla sugar/ extract/ bean paste
200g raisins/ currants/ other dried fruit
75g candied citrus peel (I skipped this)
1 tsp rum aroma/extract, or 2 tbsp rum
For finishing:
50g butter
Plenty of icing/confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
Preheat the oven to 180C/ 160C fan/ 350F. While the oven is preheating, toast the flaked/slivered almonds until lightly golden on a baking sheet. Line another baking sheet with baking paper.
Mix together the dry ingredients for the dough. Mix together the wet ingredients separately. Mix them together.
Form into a loaf. Bake for about an hour until golden brown and baked through.
Cozonac Festive Bread with a Walnut, Chocolate and Coffee Filling
Adapted from a few different recipes, most notably those of Irina Georgescu
For the dough:
600g strong white bread flour
8g salt
14g instant/ fast-action yeast
200ml full-fat milk (3-4% fat content)
2 UK/EU medium or US/Aus large eggs
2 UK/EU medium or US/Aus arge egg yolks (reserve the whites for the filling)
150g caster/superfine sugar (you can make granulated into superfine by pulsing a few times in a food processor)
1 tbsp vanilla extract
150g sour cream, at room temperature
80g unsalted butter, melted and cooled (or use salted and reduce the salt)
For the filling:
200g walnuts
2 tsp instant coffee or 2 scant tsp espresso powder (my preferred option)
25g cocoa
2 tbsp rum or milk
140g caster/superfine or granulated sugar
2 egg whites, reserved from the dough
Before it goes in the oven:
1 egg yolk beaten with a little egg white to loosen.
Make the dough:
1. In a stand mixer, mix the flour and salt, then mix in the yeast. Add the milk and combine well with the paddle attachment. Set aside.
2. Beat the eggs and yolks with the sugar until just before the ribbon stage, then mix in the sour cream, orange zest and vanilla.
3. Mix this into the flour mixture and beat, still using the paddle attachment on medium speed for about 6 minutes until thick strands of dough begin to separate.
4. Switch the mixer to low and add the butter, 1 tbsp at a time, combining well. At this point you may want to transfer to an oiled bowl (I kept it in the same bowl). Either way, cover and leave to rise until nearly doubled in size.
Make the filling:
1. Blitz the walnuts in a food processor until ground. Don’t go too far unless you’re trying to make walnut butter! Add the coffee, cocoa and milk or rum and blitz for a few second until combined. Set aside.
2. Whisk the egg whites until foamy, then gradually add the sugar until thick, glossy and holding peaks. Fold in the walnut mixture.
Assemble the loaves:
1. Grease two 2lb/ 900g loaf tins with butter and line with baking paper.
2. Lightly grease your work surface with a neutral oil. Divide the dough into four equal pieces. Pat out two of the pieces into rectangles. Spoon and smooth a quarter of the filling on to one side, then roll up into two logs. Twist the logs around each other the best you can (the dough is very slack) then pop into one of the loaf tins. Repeat with the other pieces of dough and the other loaf tin.
3. Cover and leave to rise until puffy, you could do this in a warm place for a quick result, or overnight in the fridge.
When you’re ready to bake!
Preheat the oven to 180C/ 160C fan / 350F. Mix up the egg wash. When the oven is preheated, brush the loaves with the egg wash. Bake for 20 minutes, then reduce the oven to 150C/ 130C fan / 300F and bake for a further 20 minutes. If your oven tends to burn the tops of things, you may need or want to put a foil tent over them for the last 10 minutes or so.
Episode 61: Remember Rosemary
“There’s rosemary, that’s for remembrance; pray, love, remember…” – Ophelia in Hamlet by William Shakespeare
Baby Rosemary Sticky Buns
This recipe is adapted from my perennial fave and fellow queer British baker Ruby Tandoh. Apparently rosemary sweet buns are popular in Mexico City. Take my word for it and don’t overdo the rosemary. The original recipe calls for 8 sprigs, but depending on how bushy your sprigs are, you may need significantly less. 5 was the right balance for me.
500g strong white flour
1 tsp/ 4g salt
7g fast-action/instant yeast
315ml lukewarm warm water or milk
100g softened butter
175g sugar (soft light brown was my preference)
Pinch of salt
The leaves of 5 rosemary sprigs- more or less depending on your sprigs and preference
Mix together the flour and salt. Mix in the yeast. Mix in the liquid. Cover. Leave to ‘autolyse’ for a bit, if you like, to allow the flour to soak up the liquid evenly and the dough to start forming gluten bonds on its own. I do this for about 15-30 minutes.
Knead the dough until smooth and passing the ‘windowpane’ test. Cover and leave in a warm place to double in size, about 1-2 hours.
When doubled in size. preheat the oven to 200C/ 180C fan / 400F. Roll the dough out into a large rectangle. Blitz the rosemary with the brown sugar in the food processor, or finely chop your rosemary beforehand. Mix the rosemary sugar and butter together and spread over your rectangle. Roll up on the long edge. Cut into 24 slices.
Bake in a lined roasting tin for about 20 minutes until golden brown and baked through.
Chocolate Oatmeal Cookies with Rosemary
I sometimes am lucky enough to get emails from publishers about exciting new baking books. Sugar and Spice Cookies, by Megan Neveu, is right up my street: simple recipes to make but with delicious, unusual flavour combinations and wonderful textures. I knew when I saw this recipe that it had to be included. Lemon and chocolate and rosemary and chocolate are woefully underrated combinations that deserve the same limelight as chocolate-orange.
I took some to my brother and sister-in-law’s house and it pleased both them and my nephews (aged 7 and 10). They even pestered me afterwards for where they could find the recipe. They are excellent cooks and bakers so that says a lot!
Makes 30 cookies
Cozy and classic meets fresh and vibrant in these cookies. They have the same taste and texture of traditional oatmeal chocolate chip cookies you know and love, but now with notes of citrus and pine. The addition of the rosemary and lemon zest brings a subtle hint of brightness that complements the chocolate chips beautifully. It’s a fresh spin on a classic I think you’ll absolutely love. (Megan’s words. Kate’s notes in italics.)
INGREDIENTS
1½ cups (180 g) all-purpose flour (plain flour)
1 tsp baking soda (bicarbonate of soda)
½ tsp salt
1 cup (200 g) light brown sugar
½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar (or caster/castor)
1–2 tsp (1–2 g) finely chopped rosemary
Zest of 1 lemon (smallish if you use Mediterranean lemons)
1 cup (226 g) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 US/Aus large egg, room temperature (UK/EU medium)
1 US/Aus large egg yolk, room temperature (UK/EU medium)
2 tsp (10 ml) vanilla extract
2 cups (180 g) rolled oats
1½ cups (255 g) semisweet or milk chocolate chips (I used 35% cocoa solids milk chocolate)
DIRECTIONS
In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda (bicarb) and salt until well combined. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the sugars, rosemary and zest on low speed until the texture resembles wet sand. Add the butter and beat on medium speed for 3 minutes, or until well combined. On low, mix in the egg, egg yolk and vanilla until smooth and well combined. Scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl as needed. With the mixer on low, mix the dry ingredients into the wet until just combined. Stir in the oats and chocolate chips. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap, and chill it in the fridge for at least 2 hours and up to overnight.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Pull the cookie dough from the fridge to sit out at room temperature for 20 minutes before baking.
Scoop 2-tablespoon (30-g) amounts of the cookie dough onto the baking sheet 3 inches (8 cm) apart. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes, or until the edges are set. Keep the cookies on the hot baking sheet for 10 minutes before transferring them to a cooling rack to cool to room temperature.
Credit:
Reprinted with permission from Sugar + Spice Cookies by Megan Neveu. Page Street Publishing Co. 2022. Photo credit: Megan Neveu.
Apple and Rosemary Crepes
Adapted from a recipe in Irina Georgescu’s Tava.
Makes 6-8 crepes, enough for 2 people. Do double the recipe if you like!! The sauce is excellent on vanilla ice cream with a few toasted nuts on top, if you have any leftover!
For the crepes:
Around 75g unsalted butter, for frying
2 UK/EU medium or US/Aus large eggs
1 tsp sugar (I used golden caster but granulated would be fine)
A pinch of salt
100g plain/ AP flour
200ml milk – preferably full-fat but another kind will work
For the sauce:
30g caster./granulated sugar
200ml/g apple juice
1-2 tbsp lemon juice (start with 1 and taste)
1 tsp apple cider vinegar
2 rosemary sprigs
40g unsalted butter
Start the crepes by mixing the eggs with the flour, sugar and salt. Add the milk gradually to incorporate well. Rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Make the sauce: Melt the sugar in a pan, swirling to help it melt evenly. Caramelise to a dark golden colour. Remove from the heat and add the apple juice, lemon juice and cider vinegar and the rosemary sprigs. Simmer until the caramel has dissolved in the juice. Remove the rosemary sprigs. Stir in the butter and simmer until slightly reduced and thickened- about 8 minutes. Turn off the heat. Warm through before serving.
Make the crepes: Heat a little butter in a medium-large non-stick frying pan or well-seasoned skillet. Wipe round (being careful not to burn yourself!) if necessary to ensure even coverage of butter on the pan. Ladle in some mixture and quickly swirl it round to create a thin layer of crepe. Flip when golden on the bottom side and set on the top and cook a little more until it looks done.
Serve hot, with extra butter and sauce. I think it would be lovely with some caramelised apples, but I haven’t yet tried this out.
Rosemary Chocolate Loaf Cake
This is via another fave, Rukmini Iyer, in The Sweet Roasting Tin
For the cake:
170g light brown sugar
50g olive oil
120g full-fat natural yogurt
3 UK/EU medium or US/Aus large eggs
A pinch of salt
120g plain/all-purpose flour, plus 1/2 tsp for the chocolate
1 + 2/3 tsp baking powder
50g cocoa powder (Dutch-processed is my preference and is the norm in the UK)
30ml milk
2 sprigs rosemary, leaves finely chopped
100g chocolate, chopped – my preference was for 35% cocoa solids milk chocolate
For the ganache:
150ml double/heavy cream
150g chopped chocolate – my preference was for 35% cocoa solids milk chocolate
A pinch of salt
1 long sprig of rosemary
1 long sprig of rosemary to decorate (optional)
First, make the cake. Preheat the oven to 180C/ 160C fan / 350F. Grease and line a 2lb/900g loaf tin. Mix the flour, rosemary, salt, baking powder. Mix the olive oil, yogurt and sugar. You may want to sieve the sugar if lumpy, or use an electric whisk to break up lumps. Then mix in the eggs, one at a time. Add the flour mixture and combine but avoid overmixing. Add the milk and combine. Toss the chopped chocolate in 1/2 tsp flour then sprinkle it over the top of the batter. Push the chocolate down a little so it is partly covered. This method ensures the chocolate doesn’t all sink, but also doesn’t burn from being too exposed. Bake for about 45 minutes until it springs back or a skewer comes out clean of raw cake batter.
While the cake is cooling, make the ganache. Heat the cream with the rosemary sprig until steaming but not boiling. Remove the sprig of rosemary. Add in the chocolate. Leave for a few minutes, then stir. Cool for a while then spread over the top of the cake. Serve when the ganache is set. Decorate with the remaining sprig of rosemary, if you like.
Additional Suggestions
P.S. Not featured or tried yet, but I want to bake:
– Ravneet Gill’s Apple and rosemary tarte tatin
– Nigella Lawson’s Rosemary Remembrance Cake
– Blood orange rosemary cookies in Sugar and Spice Cookies by Megan Neveu.
Episode 60: Musings on Muffins
This episode was a JOY to research! All the below recipes BANG.
Jordan Marsh Blueberry Muffins
This recipe is absolutely exceptional.
Salted Caramel Chocolate Muffins
Adapted, very lightly, from the Sweet Roasting Tin by Rukmini Iyer
200g plain/ all purpose flour
50g cocoa powder (I like Dutch processed and use Green and Blacks)
2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp fine salt
Sea salt flakes
150g soft dark brown or light brown sugar
90g olive oil
100g natural or Greek yogurt
150ml/g milk
1 UK/EU medium or US/Aus Large egg
100g chopped dark chocolate (mine was 70% cocoa solids)
12 heaped teaspoons of dulce de leche or tinned caramel (I use Nestle Carnation caramel)
Preheat the oven to 200C / 180C fan / 400F. Line a muffin tin with 12 cases.
Sieve the brown sugar into a large bowl. Alternatively, you can break up large lumps with a fork and/or your fingers. Add the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder and fine salt and whisk/ fork together.
Whisk together the olive oil, yogurt, milk and egg. Stir into the dry ingredients along with 75 of chopped dark chocolate until no unmixed flour remains and no further.
Spoon about a tablespoon of mixture into each case, then add a heaped teaspoon of caramel, followed by a pinch of sea salt flakes. Top off with the remaining mixture before scattering the remaining chopped chocolate over.
Bake for 20 minutes until it springs back to the touch. Cool briefly and eat while warm or cool completely before storing in an air tight container.
Spiced Carrot Muffins
Using the template recipe in Rukmini Iyer’s Sweet Roasting Tin, with my own twists
250g plain / all purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder, one of them slightly heaped
150g light brown sugar (or a mix of white and dark brown sugar)
150g Greek or natural yogurt
100ml/g milk (mine was whole, ie. 3.5-4% fat, but it doesn’t matter too much)
90g oil (I used grapeseed)
1 UK/EU medium or US/Aus large egg
150g carrot, fairly finely grated (the second-biggest side of a box grater)
1 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp cardamom
1/2 tsp nutmeg or 1 tsp ground mahleb
1/2 tsp ground ginger (optional)
3/4 tsp fine salt
1/2 tsp ground allspice
50g lightly roasted pecans, chopped
100g white chocolate, chopped
OPTIONAL CRUMBLE TOPPING
50g raw pecans
50g plain/ all purpose flour
25g cold butter
Pinch of salt
25g sugar (demerara or brown sugar are both great here)
Preheat the oven to 190C / 170C fan / 375F. Line a muffin pan with 12 cases.
If using, make the crumble topping by rubbing the butter and flour together and then stirring in the sugar and nuts. Alternatively, you can rub them all together by hand. Set aside.
Sieve the brown sugar into a large bowl. Alternatively, you can break up any large lumps with a fork and/or your fingers. Then mix in the flour, baking powder, spices and salt. Mix together the yogurt, milk, egg and oil. Mix the wet ingredients into the dry, along with the grated carrot, chocolate and lightly roasted pecans.
Spoon the mixture into the cases, then sprinkle over the crumble topping over each. Bake for about 20-25 minutes, until they spring back to the touch.
Lemon and Hazelnut Sour Cream Muffins
Again, I used recipes in The Sweet Roasting Tin by Rukmini Iyer as my starting point.
250g plain/ all purpose flour
2 tsp baking powder, one of them slightly heaped
150g dark brown sugar
3/4 tsp fine salt
Zest of 1 lemon
90g flavourless oil (I used grapeseed)
200g sour cream
30ml/g lemon juice (roughly 1 lemon, but it’s best to measure)
1 UK/EU medium or US/Aus large egg
100g white chocolate, chopped
50g lightly roasted hazelnuts, chopped
IMPORTANT CRUMBLE TOPPING:
25g cold cubed butter
Pinch of salt
50g plain flour
50g raw hazelnuts
25g brown sugar
Preheat the oven to 190C/ 170C fan / 375F. Line a muffin tin with 12 cases.
Make the crumble topping by rubbing together the ingredients, or you can just rub together the butter and flour and stir in the nuts and sugar.
Sieve the sugar into a large bowl or fork/rub it together until no large lumps remain. Stir in the flour, baking powder and salt. Whisk together the oil, sour cream, lemon juice and egg. Stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients along with the white chocolate and hazelnuts.
Spoon the mixture into the cases, then sprinkle over the crumble. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until they spring back to the touch.
Fig and Walnut Muffins
Here, I actually used this recipe for raisin and cinnamon muffins from Ruby Tandoh as my starting point.
100g butter, melted and cooled
180g light soft brown sugar (or a mix of dark brown and white sugar)
2 UK/EU large or US/Aus XL eggs
200g sour cream/ Greek yogurt
120g plain/ all purpose flour
120g wholemeal flour
1/2 tsp bicarbonate of soda/ baking soda
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp fine salt
120g dried figs, chopped
1/2 tsp cinnamon of 1 tsp ground mahleb
50g lightly roasted walnuts, chopped
IMPORTANT CRUMBLE TOPPING:
50g raw walnuts
25g butter
Pinch of salt
25g demerara or brown sugar
50g plain / all purpose flour
Preheat your oven to 190C / 170C fan / 375F. Line a muffin tin with 12 cases.
Make the crumble topping by rubbing all ingredients together between your fingers and thumbs, or you could rub together the flour and butter then stir in the nuts and sugar. Set aside.
Sieve the sugar into a large bowl, or break up any large lumps with a fork/your fingers. Stir in the flours, bicarb, baking powder and salt.
Whisk together the eggs, sour cream and butter.
Mix the wet ingredients into the dry along with the figs and walnuts. Spoon into the cases, then sprinkle over the crumble topping.
Bake for 20-25 minutes until it springs back to the touch.
Flour, Butter, Eggs, Sugar Baking Podcast 